Introduction

This isn’t a five-minute read.

It’s a detailed breakdown of how we propagate plants at Nelson Plant Guy — the exact methods we use to consistently produce strong, fast-growing plants.

There’s no secret formula here.

Most of what we do comes back to understanding how plants actually grow — then setting up the conditions to support that properly.

Over time, we’ve refined what works through hands-on experience — not theory, not guesswork, and not recycled advice.

As many people know, we do work with tissue culture, but that’s only one part of the process and not the only method we utilise for plant production. What really determines quality is what happens after — how those plants are established, rooted, and grown on.

We believe in being open about that.

Because the more people understand how to do this properly, the stronger the community becomes.

And right now, that matters.

If people can propagate well, build their own collections, and make the hobby more self-sustaining, it keeps it accessible — even when everything else is getting more expensive.

Plants have a way of grounding people.

They give you something to build, something to improve, and something that grows with you.

That’s what this guide is about.

This is how we do it.

If you’d like a PDF copy of this guide, feel free to flick us a DM or send us an email — we’re happy to send one through.

Matt’s Background

We both felt it was time to share Matt’s knowledge.

It might appear that Matt is a latecomer to the rare plant scene, but his horticultural background goes right back to childhood — helping his grandparents in the garden and growing up in a rural environment, where his interest in plants first began.

Originally, he started out collecting rare palms, cycads, and Pachypodiums — something he has recently started getting back into again, using up space meant for my begonias, I may add.

His time in Australia, along with travelling throughout South East Asia, expanded that knowledge even further and exposed him to a wide range of growing conditions.

He spent a lot of time in Far North Queensland exploring the Daintree Forest and Cape Tribulation — when he wasn’t enjoying life in the Sydney party scene.

Side note — he’s had a rather interesting life: encounters with cassowaries, crocodiles, trapdoor spiders, pet snakes, and two up-close encounters with large monitor lizards.

The second monitor lizard encounter was in Thailand, where he helped wildlife rescuers remove one from a resort pool. They weren’t too keen on tackling it themselves — especially with just a towel and underwater — which, naturally, is exactly what Matt improvised.

I guess you can’t take the curious — maybe slightly stupid — Kiwi out of the lad.

The Core Philosophy

Some propagation methods get over-explained, which makes them seem more technical or advanced than they really are.

What I’ve learned from Matt is that he breaks everything down to its simplest form — because that’s exactly what it is.

Plant growth is a sequence.
If you understand that sequence and reduce it back to the basics, it becomes very simple.

By mimicking nature, the process works the way it’s supposed to.

General Principles

Root Health & The Right Mix (Biology + Airflow)

Matt’s biggest growth “hack” isn’t fancy.

It’s roots — every time.

And the two things that control root growth more than anything else are:
• biology
• the substrate those roots live in

When establishing or dividing plants, the focus is always on building the strongest root system possible using:
• mycorrhizae (Mykos) to extend root surface area
• beneficial bacteria to stimulate root development
• a highly aerated, living substrate supported by organic inputs

Why?

Because roots are your nutrient engine.

More roots means:
• more nutrient uptake
• faster recovery after division
• stronger leaves
• quicker stem expansion

Fertiliser only supplements what roots can absorb.

If roots are weak, feeding harder doesn’t help.
If roots are strong, growth takes off.

Your substrate sets the ceiling for growth.

If roots can’t breathe, everything slows down.

This creates an environment where roots grow consistently — not in stop–start cycles.

And again:
More roots = faster growth.

Simple biology.

NPG Aroid & Alocasia Formula were designed around this exact principle — creating the ideal environment for consistent, healthy root development.

We’ll be covering planting mediums, fertiliser, nutrient strategies, lighting, and environment in a separate blog, as it’s a deeper topic on its own.

Sphagnum Moss & Perlite: The Go-To Mix for Cuttings

When it comes to propagating cuttings, one of the simplest and most reliable setups we use is a mix of sphagnum moss and perlite.

It’s not fancy — but it works. More importantly, it’s forgiving.

Why this mix works
• sphagnum moss holds moisture evenly around the cutting
• perlite creates air pockets and prevents compaction
• together, they create the balance you’re aiming for: moisture + airflow

That balance is what drives root development without tipping into rot.

How we use it
• roughly 50/50 sphagnum moss and perlite
• keep the mix light and fluffy — don’t pack it down
• moist, not wet (if you squeeze it, only a few drops should come out)

Best suited for
• aroid cuttings (Monstera, Philodendron, Anthurium, etc.)
• fresh cuts that need a stable, forgiving environment
• nodes and mid cuts that are still activating

What matters most
• warmth (this speeds up rooting significantly)
• humidity (keeps the cutting from drying out)
• airflow (prevents the mix from going stagnant)

If the mix stays too wet with no airflow, it will fail — regardless of what it’s made of.

Most hobbyists can get excellent results just using this method alone — everything else in this guide simply builds on it.

Early Rooting: Stratum + Perlite (Foundation Stage)

Before anything else, Matt focuses on one thing:
fast, strong root establishment

Originally, we used straight Stratum. It has its positives, but also some limitations. A very good friend recommended adding perlite — and that change alone produced significantly better results.

Now, a Stratum + perlite-style substrate is used across early-stage propagation, including tissue culture and Alocasia corms.

This mix:
• holds moisture without becoming soggy
• stays airy and oxygen-rich
• doesn’t compact
• provides gentle nutrients

For Tissue Culture Plantlets

The buffered, stable environment reduces transplant shock and supports clean root development during the most sensitive stage.

Once fresh, functional white roots appear, Mykos (mycorrhizae) is lightly applied around the root zone to accelerate colonisation and nutrient uptake.

This stage is critical — it sets the foundation for everything that follows.

Matt’s Take

All of these methods work for the same reason — they create the right environment for roots to do their job.

Whether it’s sphagnum and perlite for cuttings, or Stratum and perlite for early-stage plants, the goal is always the same:
• consistent moisture
• high airflow
• warmth

You’re not trying to force growth — you’re setting up the conditions that allow it to happen naturally.

At the cutting stage, it’s about stability and forgiveness.
At the early rooting stage, it’s about speed and strength.

Get those stages right, and everything that comes after becomes easier.

Strong roots early on will always outperform trying to fix weak plants later.

Focus on the foundation — the rest follows.

Humidity = Better Aerial Roots

Matt runs higher humidity in the adult plant tent for one specific reason:
to encourage aerial roots

But not the hard, woody ones you usually see.

In higher humidity, aerial roots form as soft, white, actively growing roots.

These are gold.

They’re already active roots.

So when you:
• cut
• propagate
• or attach them to a pole

They convert into fine feeder roots almost instantly.

Compare that to dry-grown aerial roots that are brown and hard — those can take weeks to activate.

Soft roots = faster establishment.
Faster establishment = faster growth.

Again, it all comes back to roots.

Cloning Paste on Nodes (Waking Dormant Growth Points)

Most aroid stems and rhizomes have dormant growth points at each node, but usually only one grows at a time because the plant focuses its energy on the main active growth tip (apical dominance).

Cloning paste (keiki paste) can be lightly applied to a node to signal the plant to activate that dormant bud.

This can result in:
• additional shoots
• bushier growth
• multiple heads from a single stem
• increased future propagation points

It’s most useful after:
• crawler stems are pinned and rooted
• stems are snipped between nodes
• mother plants are topped
• stubborn nodes fail to activate naturally

It’s not magic.
It simply redirects energy that already exists.

Matt’s Take

Cloning paste is a tool, not a requirement.

If the plant is healthy and conditions are right, nodes will activate on their own over time. The paste simply speeds that process up and helps direct where growth happens.

It’s most effective when the plant already has strong roots and enough energy to support multiple growth points.

Like everything else, it works best when the fundamentals are already in place.

Hydrogen Peroxide: Clean Cuts & Rot Prevention

Cleanliness matters more than most products.

Before making any cuts:
• sterilise your blade
• work in a clean space
• avoid contaminating fresh cuts

A dirty blade can introduce bacteria straight into the plant — and that’s often where rot starts.

Hydrogen peroxide can help, but prevention is always better.
Clean cuts and a clean environment lead to higher success rates.

Hydrogen peroxide is one of those simple tools that can make a real difference in propagation when used properly.

We use it across both cuttings and corm work to reduce rot risk and keep things clean during the most vulnerable stages.

It’s not essential — but it’s a very useful support tool.

Why we use it
• helps kill surface bacteria
• reduces fungal risk
• adds a short burst of oxygen to the tissue
• useful on fresh cuts where infection risk is highest

For cuttings

After taking a cutting, especially thicker aroid stems:
• lightly rinse or dab the cut end with diluted hydrogen peroxide
• let it sit briefly
• allow the cutting to dry slightly before planting

This is particularly useful when:
• working with high-value plants
• cutting thicker, moisture-retaining stems
• propagating in warmer conditions where rot risk is higher

For corms (including sliced corms)

Corms are much more prone to rot, especially once cut.

• after cleaning or slicing, apply a light diluted rinse
• do not soak — keep it controlled
• allow the corm to dry and callous before placing into your medium, with the exposed side facing up

This helps reduce contamination at the exact point where rot usually starts.

How to use it properly
• use a diluted solution (commonly 3% diluted further with water)
• apply lightly — more is not better
• always follow with proper drying or callousing time

Overuse can damage healthy tissue just as easily as it kills unwanted bacteria.

Rooting Hormone: Speeding Up Root Development

Rooting hormone is one of those tools that can give you an edge — especially when you want faster, more reliable results.

It’s not required for propagation, but when used properly, it can significantly improve success rates and speed up root formation.

Why we use it
• encourages faster root initiation
• improves success rates on harder cuttings
• helps reduce stress on fresh cuts
• supports more uniform root development

Where it’s most useful
• fresh cuttings (especially thicker stems)
• mid cuts and nodes that are slower to activate
• higher-value plants where you want to minimise risk
• colder conditions where rooting naturally slows down

How we use it
• apply lightly to the cut end or node
• tap off any excess — you only need a small amount
• place straight into your propagation medium

More is not better.
Too much can actually slow things down or damage tissue.

What still matters most

Rooting hormone doesn’t replace the basics:
• warmth
• humidity
• airflow
• the right substrate

Without those, it won’t perform the way you expect.

Matt’s Take

Think of hydrogen peroxide and rooting hormone as support tools — not solutions.

Hydrogen peroxide helps reduce risk at the most vulnerable stages, but if your setup is too wet, too cold, or lacking airflow, rot will still happen. Clean cuts, good airflow, and the right environment will always matter more.

Rooting hormone speeds up what the plant is already trying to do. It’s not creating roots — it’s encouraging them. If the environment is right, it helps push things along faster. If the environment is wrong, it won’t fix it.

Both tools work best when the fundamentals are already in place.

Focus on the setup first — then use them to improve your results.

You don’t need to use any of these additives to be successful — they simply improve consistency when everything else is already dialled in.

Tissue Culture

This next section moves into more advanced propagation methods — it’s not required for most hobbyists, but it helps explain how we scale and refine results.

Raising Tissue Culture Properly

This is something we’re actively trying to normalise and help shape into better industry practices across the wider community.

For us, that means transparency — especially around acclimation stages — and being clear about what customers are actually receiving.

Under-acclimatised plants shouldn’t be passed on without that being clearly communicated.

Good tissue culture isn’t just deflask and sell.

Tissue culture is something we’ve worked with for a while now. For us, it’s never been about replacing traditional growing — it’s simply another tool for increasing available stock.

What matters most isn’t the tissue culture itself — it’s what happens after.

Matt focuses on:
• proper hardening
• root establishment first
• gradual acclimation
• biological support

Strong early roots determine everything later.

Cut corners early, and plants either grow slowly or decline.
Do it right, and plants grow consistently for years.

Tissue culture gives consistency — but how you grow it afterwards determines the quality.

Our focus is always on building strong, active root systems and transitioning plants into stable growing conditions.

Done properly, this creates plants that grow consistently, stay healthy, and thrive long-term.

We treat this stage with a lot of care, because shortcuts early on always show up later.

Matt’s Take

At the end of the day, tissue culture is just another tool.

It doesn’t replace good growing — it simply gives you another way to get there.

If the foundations are right, everything else follows.

Alocasia Propagation

Corm Establishment (Stratum + Perlite Method)

For Alocasia corms, the same Stratum + perlite mix is used — but how they’re placed matters just as much as the medium itself.

Corms are not fully buried — they are positioned partially exposed on the surface.

This helps:
• roots grow downward quickly
• shoots emerge faster
• reduce rot risk
• improve overall success rates

Humidity and consistent warmth are key.

If a corm is exposed to cold, germination will slow significantly, as Alocasia naturally go dormant during colder periods.

Encouraging Multiple Growth Points

Alocasia naturally prioritise a single dominant growth point. Cloning paste (keiki paste) can be useful here as well.

Rhizome division works by interrupting that dominance and redistributing energy across the plant.

Instead of one active point, you can encourage multiple to activate.

This happens through:
• strong root establishment
• high energy reserves
• controlled division of the rhizome
• correct environmental conditions

You’re not forcing growth — you’re redirecting it.

Rhizome Cutting / Division Process

This is best done on well-established plants — if you’re newer to propagation, it’s worth mastering other methods first.

• identify a healthy, established plant with a firm rhizome
• ensure the plant has strong roots before attempting anything
• sterilise your blade (non-negotiable)
• make a clean cut through the rhizome

At this stage, hydrogen peroxide can be used as a preventative step.

A light application of diluted hydrogen peroxide can help:
• kill surface bacteria
• reduce fungal risk
• oxygenate the cut area

Use a diluted solution (commonly 3% diluted further with water). Lightly rinse or dab the cut surface — do not soak it.

• allow the cut to dry and callous slightly
• place into a controlled propagation environment

Each section of rhizome has the potential to activate a growth point when conditions are correct.

You can use either:
• sphagnum moss + perlite
• or Stratum + perlite

as your propagation medium for rhizome divisions.

What Matters Most

• warmth (this speeds everything up)
• high humidity (without stagnation)
• airflow (to prevent rot)
• a well-draining, clean medium

This works because you’re breaking the plant’s natural dominance of a single growth point, causing it to respond by activating others.

Energy Storage and Corm Production

Corm production is essentially a plant signalling that it has surplus resources.

When root systems are dense and active, plants begin storing excess energy and producing corms.

High corm output isn’t a separate technique — it’s a result of strong establishment.

Provide the roots, and plants will multiply naturally.

Pon is a very effective medium for mass corm production.

Our own Alocasia formula (a Pon hybrid mix) has also proven to increase corm yield by introducing an organic element that supports beneficial bacteria, leading to stronger, more active root systems and, in turn, higher corm production — while maintaining the ease of care that self-watering setups with Pon provide.

Matt’s Take

Everything comes back to how you start them.

If you nail early root development, everything after that becomes easier — faster establishment, stronger growth, and more consistent plants long term.

From corms to rhizome division, it’s all the same principle.

This isn’t about forcing growth — it’s about mimicking what the plant already does naturally. When an Alocasia goes dormant and the crown dies back, it responds by activating new growth points.

You’re simply working with that process — not against it.

Strong roots create energy.
Energy allows the plant to store, divide, and multiply.

If your roots aren’t right, don’t touch the rhizome.

Done right, you can turn one plant into many.
Done wrong, it’s a quick way to lose it.

Focus on the foundation — the rest follows.

Philodendron, Monstera, Scindapsus & Other Aroids

Moss Poles = Faster Growth (Not Just for Climbing)

A lot of people think moss poles are just for support or aesthetics.

They’re not.

They’re actually root systems in disguise.

When aroids climb, they don’t just hold on — they actively root into the surface.

Once those aerial roots anchor into moisture, the plant suddenly has:
• more root mass
• more water access
• more nutrient uptake
• more stability

Which means:
faster growth and bigger leaves

You’ll often notice this immediately. A plant that’s stalled in a pot will suddenly size up once it grabs a pole.

It’s not a coincidence.
It’s simply extra roots feeding the plant.

At NPG, we treat poles as an extension of the pot — not just something to tie plants to.

Once each node has rooted into the pole, you can snip between them, leave each cutting in place, and allow each node to activate new growth before removing and potting up.

Pin Your Crawlers Down

Crawler-type aroids have a huge advantage that most people don’t use.

Every node can root.

So instead of letting stems wander above the pot, Matt pins them down to the substrate.

Just gently secure the stem so nodes stay in contact with the mix.

What happens?

Each node starts rooting.

Which creates:
• multiple feeding points
• stronger plants
• faster growth
• easy future cut points

It turns one vine into several root systems.

Later, each section can be separated into a new plant.

Snip to Activate Growth Points

Once crawler or climber stems have rooted at each node, Matt takes it one step further.

He snips the stem between each well-rooted node and leaves them exactly where they are.

No repotting.
No disturbance.
No transplant shock.

Just a clean cut.

This triggers:
• new growth points activating
• multiple shoots forming
• bushier growth
• faster overall production

One vine suddenly becomes multiple plants in the same pot.

Where You Cut Matters (Variegation & Growth Points)

Not all nodes are equal — especially when it comes to variegated plants.

If you’re propagating variegated aroids, where you cut can directly affect whether the new plant continues that variegation or loses it.

Why?

Because variegation isn’t just in the leaf — it runs through the stem and into the growth point.

What to look for

Before cutting, check the node and surrounding stem:
• visible striping or marbling in the stem
• variegation running through the node itself
• a growth point that shows variegation influence

If the node is connected to strong variegation in the stem, it’s far more likely to produce a variegated plant.

If the node sits on a fully green section, it will usually produce green growth.

How to approach your cuts
• avoid cutting blindly between nodes
• choose sections where variegation is clearly present in the stem
• prioritise nodes linked to stable or consistent variegation
• don’t rely on leaf pattern alone — always check the stem

What to understand

Even with perfect cuts, variegation is never guaranteed.

Plants can:
• revert to green
• increase variegation
• or change expression over time

You’re not controlling the outcome — you’re improving your odds.

Matt’s Take

All of this comes back to one thing — creating more roots.

Moss poles, pinning crawlers down, and snipping between nodes are all doing the same job:
turning one plant into multiple active root systems

You’re not forcing anything — you’re just taking advantage of how aroids naturally grow.

If a node can root, it should be rooting.

Once each node has its own root system, it becomes its own plant — you’ve just done it without slowing anything down.

No shock.
No setbacks.
Just continuous growth.

That’s the key.
Build the roots first, then multiply from there.

If you want variegation, you need to follow it through the plant.

Don’t cut based on the leaf — cut based on the stem and growth point.

You’re not just making more plants — you’re selecting what those plants will become.

Extending Nodes on Difficult Aroids

This is experimental and not something most growers will be working with — it sits well beyond standard propagation, but shows what’s possible once the fundamentals are mastered.

This isn’t widely known — and it reflects how in-depth this guide goes.

We were fortunate enough to be given access to an early sample developed by a very talented local lab technician, who deserves a lot of credit for the work behind it.

Some aroids can be frustrating.
Tight nodes.
No space to cut.
Hard to propagate.

This becomes a real limitation when you’re trying to turn one plant into multiple viable propagations — especially on slower or higher-value species.

We’ve been trialling a stem-elongation approach that encourages slightly longer internodes on certain plants.

This creates:

• better spacing between nodes
• easier, cleaner cut points
• more viable propagations
• less damage to mother plants

Some species naturally stack nodes tightly, which limits how usable the stem is for propagation.

Historically, growers would reduce light to stretch internodes — but this often results in:

• reduced variegation
• slower growth
• weaker structure

Instead, this approach aims to gently increase spacing without compromising plant health or light levels.

It provides:

• clearer cut points
• easier propagation
• less stress on the plant
• more usable stem sections

This isn’t a replacement for good growing conditions — it simply creates working space where it’s needed.

Matt’s Note

This is still in trial stages and isn’t commercially available.

We’ve been given permission to trial this work directly from the original developer — all he has asked is that we provide genuine feedback.

To be clear:

• this is not something currently available on the market
• it is not something we’ve developed ourselves
• it has only been shared in a very limited trial context

If this type of product becomes available commercially, we would always support the original source behind it.

It’s also worth approaching any similar or “replica” products with caution. Without the correct formulation and understanding behind it, they won’t perform the same — and in some cases can do more harm than good.

This type of work originates from tissue culture (in vitro), where growth regulation is well understood. What’s being trialled here is an adapted version designed to assist with stem structure in established plants for manual propagation.

Used properly, it creates a clear advantage when working with difficult aroids — not by forcing growth, but by making the plant physically easier to work with.

Like everything else in this guide, it doesn’t replace good fundamentals.
It simply builds on them.

What Happens Next (Post-Propagation Care)

This is where most people go wrong.

They do everything right — then ruin it by interfering too early.

Fresh cuttings, corms, and divisions don’t need attention.
They need stability.

After placing into your medium:
• don’t keep checking roots
• don’t repot too early
• don’t keep moving the plant around

Leave it alone.
Let it establish.

What you’re looking for is:
• consistent moisture (not wet)
• stable warmth
• good humidity
• airflow

Once roots are actively growing and a new growth point is forming, then you can start thinking about transitioning.

Until then, don’t touch it.

Reading the Plant (Success vs Failure)

Plants will tell you what’s happening — if you know what to look for.

Signs of success:
• fresh white roots forming
• roots branching and extending
• a new growth point activating
• leaves holding firmness

Signs of problems:
• soft, brown, or mushy roots
• foul smell (rot)
• yellowing combined with no root activity
• complete stagnation over time

Not all slow growth is failure.
Sometimes plants are just building roots before showing anything above the surface.

Roots come first — growth follows.

Don’t Overhandle (Let It Do Its Thing)

This is one of the biggest mistakes people make.

They check too often.
Move plants too early.
Disturb roots before they’re established.

Every time you interfere, you slow the process down.

Propagation isn’t about constant adjustment — it’s about setting the right conditions and letting the plant respond.

Once it’s placed:
Leave it alone.

The plant knows what to do.

Final Thoughts

At the end of the day, none of this is complicated.
If you strip it all back success comes down to a few simple things:
• warmth
• airflow
• consistent moisture
• leaving plants alone to establish

Everything else in this guide builds on those fundamentals.

There’s no shortcut that replaces understanding how plants actually grow.

Everything in this guide comes back to one core idea:

Healthy roots drive everything.

If you focus on building strong, active root systems, the rest follows naturally:

• faster growth
• stronger plants
• more propagation points
• higher success rates

Most of what we’ve shared isn’t new.

It’s just often overlooked, overcomplicated, or not explained properly.

At Nelson Plant Guy, we don’t see propagation as a trick or a hack — it’s simply working with the plant and understanding how it naturally grows.

Give plants the right conditions, and they’ll do what they’re designed to do:
grow, adapt, and multiply.

And more importantly — share it.

A strong community benefits everyone.

Growers, collectors, and small businesses all do better when knowledge is shared openly and people are supported to learn properly.

If more people can propagate well and build self-sustaining collections, the whole space becomes more stable, more accessible, and a lot more enjoyable.

That’s what we’re about.

If you’ve got questions or want to learn more, feel free to reach out — we’re always happy to help where we can.

Keep it simple.

Focus on the roots.

The rest will follow.